Diy Cambelt Change On A Tdi

[SolarB]

I intend to change the cambelt on my 2001 TDi (engine code AUY) in the next couple of weeks and would appreciate advise from anyone who's done it before.

 

I have a copy of the Ford TIS which gives, as far as I can see, a pretty good guide to belt replacement. I'm sure I've heard that it's sensible to replace the water pump during cambelt changes so I'll do that as well.

 

The current shopping list is:

Cambelt

Tensioner pully

Water pump

Water pump gasket

Accessory drive belt

 

Is there anything I've missed that I'm going to need or should replace while I'm doing this job?

 

Also, the TIS shows a crank locking tool and a couple of other "special tools". Do I actually need these or can the job be done without them? If I really do need them, can anyone point me in the right direction?

[chrispb123456]

Hi there

Pretty straight forward, I always get the cambelt kit, you then get the idler aswell as the tensioner.

Just make sure you mark the pulleys with tipex and a non moving point before removing old belt, I didn't use any special locking tools only the drill bits for camshaft and checking belt tension. :)

[Richard gal]

You really need the crank locking tool. I bought a draper one off ebay... then sold it agan on ebay after use!

[tim-spam]

Sealey do a complete engine locking kit for the PD engines, and it really is quite good - I paid around

[SolarB]

Right.

 

Will buy a kit with the tensioner as well.

Crank locking tool is only

[tim-spam]

AUY engine is 115PS PD engine. You will need a tool to move the tensioner - this is included in the Sealey kit, although you may get away with using some circlip pliers.

[GrannyPower]

Hi there.

 

I did my AUY Galaxy a couple of years ago because the water pump impeller had broken.

 

It was all straight forward.

 

I didn't use any special tools other than the already mentioned drill bits, I used circlip pliers to adjust the tensioner which worked fine.

 

Good luck.

 

Chris.

[big wheel]

As you will see from the post above yours (engine noise) I did mine yesterday.

You will spend more time trying to get the sump guard off if you haven't got a ramp.

While it's off, have a good nosey around for loose pipes,cables and leaks, that thing hides a multitude of sins.

You can buy the tools off sealey to make it easier, but it can be done without.

What you need is a 4mm drill and circlip pliers for the tensioner and a 6mm for the cam.

But as Chris says,the best and least expensive thing to get is Tipex.

With any job, not just this one, is mark everything you take off or slacken off.

Also put the belt on the cam/ water pump and crank first, leaving the slack side for the tensioner.

Then before you jump for joy that you have done it, turn the engine over (by hand) a couple of times to make sure all your Tipex marks line up. Then when it's running, nip around to the pub and tell all your mates how clever you are, not in the car I should add.

[tim-spam]

You may get away with tipex, but please remember that during the change, the cam timing should be reset - the only way of ensuring that this is precise is by using the correct crank locking tool.

By the way, when setting the tensioner, I always have 3.5mm, 4.0mm and 4.5mm drills to hand. When the tension is correct, the 3.5mm drill rattles, the 4mm drill passes through with some resistance and the 4.5mm drill should not pass through.

[SolarB]

Thanks for all the advice people.

Will order the crank locking tool.

Have various bent nosed pliers, circlip pliers and bits of bent metal for the tensioner pulley

Will use tippex everywhere and take photos just in case.

Have a selection of drill bits on standby.

Should get a chance next weekend.

[Bigjeeze]

Dear all the camshaft locking tool set from Sealey can be bought from Justoffbase ( you can find them on the web for a little over